Australia Trip 2019 - Part 1 - Ajax to Port Fairy
- Wayne Webster
- Sep 9, 2021
- 11 min read
Updated: Oct 6, 2021
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September 25th-27th, 2019
Ajax to Toronto (car service) - Flight to San Francisco (five hours) - Flight to Melbourne (fifteen hours)
Car service picked us up on time, very smooth. Lovely driver: Salim. Uneventful and on time Air Canada flight to San Francisco. The luggage went straight through, but we had to go through security again, and a long walk through San Francisco Airport to the Quantas flight. Lovely man got us two aisle seats with an empty seat in between, which was great! Actually managed to sleep for 3-4 hours. Good food. Helpful staff. Not quite as good as Air New Zealand though.
Landed in Melbourne, Australia early at 5 am. Customs and baggage pick up went smoothly, and there was lovely Suse to meet us -- there were a few tears. She took us back to her lovely two bedroom apartment which she bought eight months ago. Suse is still SUSE, competent, organized, lovely. Ate a little and decided not to sleep, but headed out to the Healsville Animal Sanctuary for Australian animals, birds, etc.
Hit the wall about 3:30 - 4:00 pm, but saw everything. Went to talks on kangaroos, wombats and koalas. The only thing we missed was the dingo talk.
Headed back and had great take out: fish and chips and wine. Talked our heads off. Hit the sack about 8:15 pm.
Saturday, September 28th, 2019 Melbourne - Sunny Low 20's
Suse was free today, so we walked our feet off and saw so much. Took our wonderful Tram 58 into the city centre (about 20 minutes).
Went to the market which was huge and wonderful. Gawped at all the meat, fish, fruit and veg and hit the crafts/clothes section. Bought a little t-shirt for Lisbeth and have a feeling I should have done a lot more shopping there.
Then walked over to the State Library Victoria -- fantastic, huge dome windows letting in the light.
Then walked through Chinatown. Then went to a really neat alley covered in street art: Hosier Lane
In Federation Square saw the big footie kick-off on the jumbotron
Then on to the Botanic Gardens -- very lovely -- we walked and walked for miles.
Hit the wall as usual about 3:30 - 4:00 pm. Went to the Shrine of Remembrance - a war memorial - very impressive and moving.
Then back by tram to Suse's. She cooked up big sausages. I made a salad and we still had a load of fries and potato cakes left over from last night, which we heated in the oven. Talked and talked and drank wine. Suse talked a lot about her overseas work in Timor, Uganda and Fiji. She actually went on a safari with her Mum (my age) and two other relatives. Actually made it to 9:00 pm tonight.
Sunday, September 29th, 2019 - Melbourne - Sunny Low 20's
Suse needed to go to her best friend's 40th birthday party lunch, so she dropped us off at the National Gallery of Victoria. Very impressive art gallery -- punching way above its weight. Beautiful building with tons of fantastic art -- and it's free! Way better than the AGO. Introduced to KAZ - a modern sculptor whose 14 ton bronze pieta was outstanding, as was his Michelin Man displayed next to Rodin's "The Thinker" in the salon - go figure.
Impressive glass ceiling -- looks like stained glass.
Went on an excellent tour with Robin who explained KAZ to us, saw Picasso's Weeping Woman, a Chinese modern art installation including a video of the burning of materialistic things including Louis Vuitton bags, to the soundtrack of Ave Maria sung by Maria Callas.
Also two medieval pieces which I actually liked when she explained them.
After a bite of lunch, we took off on our own and pretty well covered it, revelling in Rembrandts, Hals, all kinds of Impressionists, Modigliani, Dali, Durer, Titan, etc. Alas, no Group of Seven!
We went on the free tourist tram which is supposed to have commentary, but this cut in and out so we were never quite sure where we were. I was in a state of high anxiety as this was the first time we had been let out on our own, However, we figured it out - got on Tram 58 to go home.
Suse took us on a long drive to St Kilda where we had a drink and a big bowl of fries overlooking the ocean,. Then we walked out on the pier hoping to see the fairy penguins swim home for the night. We saw two -- a tiny one who desperately wanted to cross the pier to his nest, but couldn't because of the unyielding crowds.
Monday, September 30th, 2019 - Melbourne - Sunny Mid 20's
On our own today, Suse at work. Took Tram 58 to the Immigration Museum, which we liked very much, and felt was a very balanced presentation. It made me sad and very angry. So many similarities to Canada: treaties made and broken, kids ripped from their parents and either adopted or sent to residential schools and then abused, reserves with appalling living conditions. I feel Canada is a little further along with the reconciliation process than Australia. However, Australia is changing: gay marriage, churches displaying banners urging people to embrace refugees, more feminism. Both countries still have a long way to go.
The most moving story for me was the Chinese woman married to a Chinese man who was an Australian citizen, who bore six children by him. She was refused an extension of her visa and sent back to China, away from her husband and children (white Australian policy).
We went on to the Melbourne Museum - huge, we should have devoted a whole day to it. Aboriginal stuff, a history of Melbourne, a rainforest, a science and nature section -- went on an ok (B-) tour with David. Chose to spend our last couple of hours in the rainforest, the history of Melbourne, and the animals -- neat thing: touch a screen and the animal pops up along with its status as endangered, vulnerable or secure.
Saw a great video of a Blue Whale, dead on the shore by the Great Ocean Road. Then walked over to meet Suse at 5:30 pm at Tiamo, a terrific Italian restaurant where we all had Osso Bucco.
Took our own wine (corkage fee $5). Then back to Suse's place where she dug out all of her pictures of her year in Toronto, including SUSEFEST, Myrtle Beach, Christmas, Ottawa, Maritimes, Rockies, etc.
Tuesday, October 1st, 2019 - Cold at night (9 C) Sunny Low 20's
Suse very kindly drove us to the airport to pick up our rental car before she went to work. A 6:15 am morning, and for the first time, I overslept. Frantic rush out the door for 7 am. We agreed: no tears, we will see Suse again when our ship comes in on November 13th - six weeks away. Also, she is trying to come to Canada next year.
Frustrating hunt for the car rental desks. Turns out they are in a hotel across the street. However, everything went smoothly after that. Got a Kia Sorento (about Corolla size) with only 13,000 km on it - lovely car - perfect for us. Got out of the airport and on to Torquay with no problems and did a big grocery shop.
Wayne drove wonderfully. Went to see the beach at Torquay (surfing beach, tide up) and walked for 3 km on a lovely path above the beach.
Then headed out onto the Great Ocean Road - absolutely iconic - Big Sur #1 gorgeous, but quite busy (school holidays).
Took two hours to go 86 gorgeous kilometres. Suse give us a TomTom GPS which finally kicked in to find Wild Dog Road. Very steep and difficult driveway, but a special place: quiet and off the grid. Rachel and Tim our hosts were very helpful. Our place is a bit old fashioned, but everything we need. Sad we are only here two nights. All kinds of animals and birds in this nature reserve. Saw cockatoos at the feeder as well as king parrots (red). Saw deer in the woods. We love it here.
Wednesday, October 2nd, 2019 Apollo Bay - Cold at night (9C) Sunny - Low 20's
A relaxing day today. Drove back to where the Great Ocean Road starts (we were too late to visit the sights yesterday) and visited Spit Point Lighthouse: huge and white - saw it from miles away Long walk - over a kilometre uphill from the parking lot to the light However, we did hit half a kilometre of the coastal trail which runs the whole distance of the Great Ocean Road. Interesting tour of the light - 134 steps to the top - good guide and amazing views from the top. I was disappointed that the two keepers cottages were sold to private buyers in the 1930's. The light was built in 1854. I find the cottages or the living quarters the most interesting bit. Light shines 30 km out to sea. Very dangerous area, many shipwrecks before the light was built. Automated 100 years ago.
A bit tired after that hike. Drove back to Lorne, very attractive high end town. Went to the little museum on the building of the Great Ocean Road by returning soldiers from WWI, with just picks, shovels and a few sticks of dynamite. Amazing achievement and quite a moving story. The idea was to bring the veterans back to physical and mental health.
Ate lunch at the perfect spot overlooking the way back, a very nice beach and a place that had all kinds of birds and koalas.
Didn't see any koala, but a nice Chinese girl gave me her seeds to feed the birds. It sure isn't like feeding chickadees! These birds are BIG with strong talons. They land on your hand, arms, head - a little intimidating, but exciting! Finally a bird fight broke out on my body. I freaked and dropped the seeds, but a great experience!
I wanted to get home at areasonable time to enjoy our nature sanctuary. Sat ourside on our patio for a while. Saw deer, two kinds of parrots: red and green (common) and red and blue (less common, slimmer and more timid) a cockatoo (very skittish, no picture.
We ate Tasmanian salmon for dinner, made some progress on the latest Peter Robinson book and fell into bed at the ridiculous hour of 8 pm -- slept like a log.
Thursday, October 3rd, 2019 - Port Campbell - Warm in the morning, cool and cloudy later - no rain, bit of fog
Very busy day today! Started with a heavenly walk on the beach at Apollo Bay - tide out, great, long walking beach. Went out on the pier to see the fishing boats unloading their catch. Very nice town, not as busy or fancy as Lorne, more laid back.
Then on to Cape Otway to see the Cape Otway Lighthouse.
Very different topography after Apollo Bay: rain forest and pasture land. The whole lighthouse complex is very impressive. Went to a history talk in the old keeper's cottage --- very good!
Then climbed the lighthouse - not as tall as yesterday, so fewer steps, but a scary end climbing 20 steps like a ladder. Great views again from the top.
Then the best: we went to an aboriginal bush talk -- absolutely excellent. They have so much to teach us if we would only ask! Talked about many plants for cooking, medicine, basket and rope making, etc. Great talker, Brad. Strong views on the modern world and how we could accomplish the same things in a simpler, cheaper, less labour intensive way that didn't wreck the earth.
Wished we could have stayed longer to visit the radar house where all Australian radar people were trained during WWII. The Japs were all over the place with their subs and planes - scary times. However, we had tickets for a canopy walk - amazing! In the rain forest, trees 300m tall, mainly myrtle beeches and blackwood. Walked for over an hour, first on the forest floor, then on a steel walkway that took you up to the top of the canopy, where you walked for 20-30 minutes. Very impressive!
We booted it to Port Campbell and our next place in Timboom, a little hard to find.
Took us about 20 minutes to locate the house, but everyone is so helpful and kind. House is huge and quite comfortable and quiet. Would sleep seven - a bit big for us! We liked our cozy little cabin in the nature reserve better. Again, no WIFI. Earlier in the day, Wayne did manage to get some emails out on our phone to Suse, Gill & Ted and Anna, so people know we are alive and well.
Friday, October 4th, 2019 - Port Campbell - Clouding Morning - Rain in the Afternoon
Drove back to the Twelve Apostles (seven left). They have a whole complex here now. It's a bit underwhelming. I find the flowerpots at Hopewell Rocks more impressive. Walked 3-4 km around the area - great views.
We drove to Loch Aird Gorge and walked some more along the Shipwreck Trail. This coast is littered with shipwrecks. Good story of a ship coming aground and 52 of the 54 people aboard died. A young man and girl made it to shore and sheltered in a cave. Got help from the locals an survived.
Shipwreck Coast - The Incredible Journey
Went down many steps to beach for great views of the gorge.
Then drove back to Port Campbell and the Tourist Information office. By now it was raining. Discovered there is nothing indoors to do in Port Campbell. All the other sites are on the other side, going toward Port Fairy, so decided to go home.
Made an omlette and had a quiet afternoon for a change. got organized for our departure to Port Fairy tomorrow. We have been going pretty hard since our arrival a week ago, so it was nice to have some down time to read (I finally read the Toronto Star from last Saturday) and do some puzzles.
Saturday, October 5th, 2019 - Sun and Cloud - Light rain after 4 pm
Got gas for the first time today ($1.50 a litre). Then headed out along the Great Ocean Road for several interesting views and rock formations. The Port Campbell overlook (town, beach and river). The Arch, London Bridge, Bay of Martyres, the Grotto, Bay of Islands, etc. All involved little walks or longer ones and lots of stairs and hills, so we got our walking in and some beach walking.
Gallery of Our Great Ocean Road Pictures
Then on to Warmambool - to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village. This had several parts. First a very state of the art museum where we were lucky enough to catch a tour with an excellent guide about the sailing ships that hauled immigrants and cargo back in the 1800's including the story and some artifacts from the Loch Ard and the two survivors. Then down to a recreated village of about fifty shops and houses from pioneer times. Started out in the teat room where we had a coffee and a bite of lunch (lovely homemade pumpkin soup and sourdough bread for me, beef and cheese pie for Wayne).
Most of the building were open and a few had people dressed in period costume doing something - like the blacksmith. We went in dozens of places: the fire hall, the school, the newspaper office, the dressmaker, the confectionary, the port doctor's house, the boat builder, the sailmaker, the cooper, the church, two lighthouses, the keepers cottage, the booking agent (for trips on the ships) and a small museum about the shipwrecks. This coast is littered with shipwrecks. Saw some videos: eg. the school teacher (strict, unkind), a passenger on one of the ships describing the voyage, etc. Finally, after four hours with feet worn out, we sat for a 20 minute documentary about rounding Cape Horn on a sailing ship during the storm of the century. Our mild trip during out Antarctica trip was so easy in comparison.
My only disappointment was missing the dogs: white sheep dogs bred in Italy, who protect the fairy penguins from predators as they come ashore at night. They had gone home for the day.
An excellent place that really brought the sixty day journey by sail to Australia to life and the lives of the pioneers when they arrived (no mention of convicts).
Gallery of our Flagstaff Hill Photos
Then on to Port Fairy to our third AIRBNB on the Great Ocean Road, a cute little 1860's cottage which has everything we need. It is mainly renovated. Some drawbacks such as bedrooms with nowhere to put stuff. But it has a huge stone fireplace with wood which we will enjoy. Good kitchen and appliances. Good shower. A very satisfying, interesting day.
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