Australia Trip 2019 - Part 3 - Sydney to Darwin

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Thursday, October 17th, 2019 - Leaving Sydney and bound for Airlie Beach- Sunny and Warm

Out of the apartment at 10 am exactly. Walked the two blocks with our luggage to the Grace Hotel and got a cab to White Bay Cruise Terminal - a bit annoying, as both Princess and Celebrity are docked at the Overseas Cruise Terminal right next to Circular Quay, while we are way out in the boonies. However, the taxi wasn't too bad: $25. Our cabin is on the lowest deck (A) which is good news/bad news. We have to take the elevator everywhere, but if there is a storm, we are in the best place. The cabin is also good news/bad news. It has a bathtub Yay! But no fridge (only in the suites apparently). This is the only Holland America ship we have ever been on that didn't have a fridge - a real hassle for me, as I need to ice and my eye meds need refrigerating once opened. I asked the cabin steward if he could freeze my two ice packs overnight. He said I have to get permission from the main office.

Made a dinner reservation for 7 pm, table for two. Had a lovely lunch in the dining room and got unpacked. New we have a home again after living out of suitcases for three weeks. Went to boat drill - one of only two things you have to do on a cruise ship (the second is pay your bill). They are playing hard ball with boat drill - if you don't attend, you don't sail. Our wine smuggled through successfully. The small boxes really work! So about 4:30 pm we poured ourselves a glass and headed up to see her cast off. Not much made of Sail Away.

Interesting leaving Sydney, we were physically tethered to a tug boat, as well as the usual pilot. The harbour is very shallow and many ships have run aground and been wrecked. Wonderful views of Sydney - went under the bridge and had our last view of the opera house. Realized how enormous Sydney is - took over an hour to clear the harbour and head out to open sea. Smooth sailing! Lovely dinner: seafood appetizer, shrimp diablo, banana crumble and ice cream. Wayne had salad, eggplant cannelloni, white chocolate lime pop. Ordered our first package of wine: eight bottles for $219. We get a 25% discount. Enjoyed a nice Pinot Grigio.

Friday, October 18th, 2019 - At Sea Bound for Airlie Beach - Warm and Comfortable

Raced around doing stuff this morning. Took my gel pack to the main office. Got a ton of quarters from the machine to wash (thank heavens we packed lots of US $1 bills). Did a load of lights. Had my beloved smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, one slice rye toast for breakfast (eggs were cold). Went to a good talk on Captain Cook who was the first to chart this eastern side of Australia. A man of many accomplishments, ahead of his time. Understood longitude, kept his crew healthy - free from scurvy and charted huge areas of the world including coast of British Columbia, Alaska, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Then a talk on our first two ports Airlie and Townsville. Relaxed in the shade on our favourite promenade deck. Harder to get a lounger - more than half are reserved for the people with cabins there. So, our usual strategy: go early and hang on! Walked about twelve laps (3 miles) in three separate, short walks. Foot seems ok so far. Didn't wear my boot. Plan is to increase gradually and wear the book if the seas get rough. Gala night tonight. I think the Maitre D Yudi is going to accommodate us with a table for two every night. Wearing the dress I wore to Anna's wedding, saving the lighter ones for the heat that is coming.

Dinner tonight was great. Yudi excelled himself. Got a table for two on the stern in his friend Zee's section. Great wait staff. Dinner was superb, with a lovely Bordeau. Started with shrimp cocktail, Wayne had carrot soup. I had a great salad with pear, orange and cherry tomatoes, lovely rack of lamb. Wayne had chocolate souffle for dessert. I had strawberries Romanov (Grand Marnier and vanilla ice cream).

Clocks back an hour tonight. Towel animal today was a seal.

Saturday, October 19th, 2019 - At Sea Bound for Airlie Beach - Sun and Cloud - Getting Hotter and More Humid

Another great sea day. Walked 10 rounds today and about five more to get around the ship. Great omelette this morning by Brek the all star omelette chef. Got good chairs on the promenade deck and held on to them through the day. Went to a good talk on Australian Wetlands and Rainforests. Then to an introduction to Cairns - which the the Aussies say exactly as written. Light lunch (soup and pizza) to save room for Afternoon Tea - very nice - fancy sandwiches, scones with cream and jam, and little pastries. Went to a good presentation of wildlife photography which helped us identify more of the birds and critters of this region.

Then went to a classical music mini-concert at 6 pm - all adagios - only 14 people present. A very good violinist and pianist, but not the repertoire for this audience. Besides, the rugby world cup was on - Australia vs UK. Lots of in between time on the promenade deck to read and do puzzles.

We are definitely over the reef now - seeing patches of weeds and different coloured water. We have a reef captain aboard.

Got my ice packs situation sorted finally, so I can now ice. Also got my exercise bands installed. Finally did my whole program today. However, my foot and shoulder are no worse.

Terrific dinner. Yudi did us proud - ocean side table for two in Zardon's section. Both of us had the crab.

Sunday October 20th, 2019 - Airlie Beach on the Great Barrier Reef - Sunny and hot

Today was a super day. Went on a high speed catamaran out to the Great Barrier Reef. Picked us up right at the ship, so no need to tender. Took two hours to get there, going through the Whitsunday Islands. Got a great seat outside on the rail. Very civilized ship - morning tea and biscuits, a very good lunch including giant prawns, great salads, hot dishes, etc., and then afternoon tea with about five kinds of very good cake.

We arrived at the pontoon. Decided not to swim or snorkel because we would have to wear a stinger suit. These tiny jellyfish (about one inch long) are highly venomous. Also, the water is still very cold. Felt badly, we would have seen a lot more if we had snorkled, but I don't have the confidence. Apparently, there was a strong current in the snorkel area. We did see quite a lot though by going on the submersible for a thirty minute ride. Saw lots of fish and coral. The coral wasn't brightly colored though - bleached?

We went down to the underwater observatory and saw lots of beautiful fish. Some people on our ship scuba dived and they obviously saw the most, but I could never do that. They wouldn't have let me anyway - too old.

The only problem was that there wasn't really enough to do for four hours. Luckily, we had taken our ereaders and puzzle books, so we were happy as clams.

Thoroughly enjoyed the two hours ride back through the Whitsunday Islands to our ship. Did five rounds (one and a quarter miles) to work off some of the cake! Actually have some wifi here, so shooting off a brief email. Dinner was very good last night. Got the same table for two in the stern in Zardon's section. Had cold asparagus and artichokes for starter, wiener schnitzel for main then forest berries and ice cream for dessert.

Gallery of Our Great Barrier Reef Pictures

Dive and Explore the Great Barrier Reef with Street View

Monday, October 21st, 2019 - Townsville - Sunny and Hot

Today was the agony and the ecstacy day. Docked in an industrial part of Townsville, so paid $5 for a shuttle. Our driver got lost - drove around for 30 minutes and then dumped us a long way from the Strand, the 2.5 km boardwalk along the ocean that has a rock pool at the end with safe swimming. We had packed our swim suits and towels. Fortunately, in our three trips around town we had see the Tourist Information, so walked towards it, and fortunately came upon the place where the shuttle was supposed to go. The free bus was right behind it, so got a nice mini tour of town including all of the Strand which we had hoped to walk. Got off at the aquarium: Reef HQ.

Again, the kids are off school for the day (do these kids ever go to school?) so it was crowded, but also wonderful. It is a proper research institute, non-profit and a lovely building: light and spacious. Went to a couple of talks, one on dangerous things that can hurt you - lots, including the nasty little one inch stinger. These creatures cause so much pain that they leave to cardiac arrest. I don't think we will be swimming in the ocean anytime soon. They are so small even the nets don't keep them out. The lifeguards drag for them three times a day, but it's hard to get every one. Valuable tip: if its cone shaped, leave it alone.

Then a good talk (overlooking the big tank) about sharks. They just had a baby, born without male sperm - first one in thirty years. We also visited the turtle hospital - they are a rescue organization. Many turtles this year - flood in the spring destroyed the sea grass they feed on, so they are starving. They had three patients they were treating with food, antibiotics, killing their parasites, etc.

Gallery of Our Turtle Hospital Pictures

Gallery of Our Aquarium Pictures

Met a wonderful volunteer named Jill who took us to see the baby shark. This is an excellent place doing vital work! Also, crowds thinned out as the day went on. Then walked back to the shuttle. Asked around for a bottle shop. The cleaner at the Tourist Information sent us only one block away where we got two bottes of good Pinot Grigio for $10 from the sale bins, then went to the park behind the Tourist Information to transfer the wine to our metal water bottles, and successfully smuggled them back on the ship.

Went back to the terminal for wifi, but it had crashed that morning (1,000 desperate cruise passengers?) and was still down, so no Toronto Star and no long emails. We can send very short ones on Suse's phone which we borrowed when we couldn't unlock our own phone to use the Australian sim card.

Very steep, nasty gangplank descending from Level 5. Watched people come in with walkers and wheel chairs - terribly sad - what on earch were Holland America thinking? I'm surprised someone didn't have a heart attack or a fall.

Another good dinner: spicy Thai shrimp soul, turkey with all the trimmings then vanilla ice cream and fruit. Wayne had the triple chocolate sundae. We are getting fat as pigs.

Tuesday, October 22nd, 2019 - Cairns - Sun and Cloud - Couple of Rain Showers

Very lucky with the weather toay. Only one huge ownpur and we were inside. A very good day. Took the ship's tour to the Kuranda Scenic Railway and Skyrail.

Started with a quick tour around Cairns - very modern, prosperous town, lovely esplanade by the ocean, nice looking botanical gardens. Then out on the train - amazing engineering - built from 1897-1915 by 1,500 men, 37 km, 327 m above sea level, removal of 2.3 m cubic metres of earth, 106 cuttings, 15 hand carved tunnels, 55 bridges, 98 curves. Highlights: Horseshoe Bend (you can see the two engines and twelve carriages in front of you), Jungora, the site of the largest field hospital in the southern hemisphere in WWII, Barrons Falls Station, where we could get out to see the vew, and the views of the moutains, deep gorges and waterfalls all the way along.

Our Gallery of Kuranda Railway Pictures

Kuranda is a neat village, but we just didn't get enough time. Had only 1.5 hours. Walked through the whole village and went to the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary which was very good. Went on a little tour with a good guide and then spent about a half hour just looking and snapping photos.

Gallery of Our Butterfly Sanctuary Photos

Time's up - no time to eat, go to the market, which looked good and cheap, or go to the bird or the wildlife place. Needed at least another few hours. Then out to Skyrail - very impressive, gorgeous views.

Gallery of Our Skyrail Photos

Met some people today: woman from Ottawa related to the Grignons of Ajax, woman from Melbourne Tourist Board on deck. There were two stops on the Skyrail - one a waterfall, the second where we could have gone on a 20 minute tour with a ranger, but no time again. We made the bus with three minutes to spare - then back to the ship. No wifi at the port - would have to take the shuttle into town - no time. Raced up to the Lido to grab some good, by then it was 4 pm. Last shuttle back at 4:30 - onboard 5:30. Shot a short message out on the phone. Got an email from Anna with election results. Liberal Minority 157 seats - 13 short, but thank goodness the Conservatives didn't win - 122 seats. Unfortunately, Singh wasn't rewarded for his excellent campaign - 23 seats, but he's the king maker now. Bloc did well - 32 seats. Greens picked up one in New Brunswick. JWR won (yuck!), Philpott lost, Bernier lost (yay!) and unfortunately Ralph Goodale lost in Regina. Could be worse! Liberal Mark Holland won handily in our riding.

Good dinner: potato and shrimp croquettes for me. Rare beef, papaya and asian spices for Wayne. Lamb shank for both of us - terrific! Creme broullee for me, Chocolate velvet cake for Wayne. Watched Yudi's funny video of him and his mini pom dog.

Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 - At Sea Bound for Darwin - Sunny and Warm

Good to have a sea day after three days ashore. It's lovely and cool on deck. Went to a very good presentation this morning from a girl who grew up on Thursday Island in the Gulf of Torres which we will be passing at 3 am this morning,, right off the eastern tip.

Very interesting, especially regarding Aboriginal issues - not allowed to travel to the mainland until the 1960's. Their claim to the land they have lived on for generations, not settled until the 1980's. Lots of islands in that area - funny they all belong to Australia.

Then went to Dr Cohen's presentation on reptiles, snakes, amphibians - a little too much info for me but still ok. Went to a presentation on acupuncture and arthritis - hopeless - just the spa selling you treatments and herbs. Went to another talk about Lizard Island which we passed today - not great, but good slides. The two male speakers seemed a bit aspy to me - talked too fast and had no feel for where their audience was at. In between all this, we hung out on the promenade deck in the shade, doing our reading, puzzles and watching the coastline go by. Good dinner tonight: roast beef and Yorkshire pudding - creme brulee. Talked to a nice couple from Ottawa at the adjoining table. No phone signal out here.

Thursday, October 24th, 2019 - At Sea Bound for Darwin - Mainly Coudly - Warm and Humid

Another great sea day. Did five rounds first thing, then breakfast. It is too hot now to eat outside, which we usually like to do for breakfast and lunch on the Lido. Went to one of Dr Cohen's talks at 10 am - birds and mammals - a lot more interesting than yesterday's reptiles and amphibians.

At 11 am I stayed for the talk on Darwin, our next port of call. A lot of info - not much of it useful. Apparently, the only way to get into town - 2 km but industrial - is a shuttle which will cost $32 for two - a rip off. The Art Gallery is way out of town - the plan now is to see what's on offer for transportation - there is a trolley, but we don't know if it will come to the port and if it goes as far as the Art Gallery. We may have to take cabs - one more sea day tomorrow so not to worry! The reef pilot gave a talk at 1 pm - very interesting and complicated - there are lanes through the reef. Hung out on promenade all afternoon - shade, good breeze, so very comfortable. Another good dinner: a tiny, but good caprese salad - huge salmon for me. Wayne had eggplant parmesan. Oh - did five more rounds of the promenade deck in the afternoon - not too shabby in this heat. Still no cell phone signal.

Friday, October 25, 2019 - At Sea Bound for Darwin - Sunny and Hot

Another super great lazy sea day. Only went to one talk, on giant sea turtles. They have existed for 100 million years. Only one out of a thousand hatchlings survive. They are endangered now - loss of habitat, plastic, warming seas. The biggest weigh 1,000 ilbs! There are massive efforts here to save them - improving habitats, hospitals to cure and release them. Six major types - five are in Australia.

Then lazed the day away - eating, reading, puzling (I almost got a hyper-sudoku today) A nice man told me how to do them. Plan to go up on deck for the sunset. It's a galal night - dress for Meg's wedding is nice and light - will do - Darwin tomorrow. Hoping there is some info in the terminal and that they have wifi.

Great dinner: jumbo shrimp cocktail. I had filet mignon, Wayne had rack of lamb, and we split them. So full - creme broulee again, Wayne something chocolate.

Saturday, October 26th, 2019 - Darwin - Sunny and Very Hot

Apart from a couple of transportation glitches, this day went very well. After paying the exorbitant sum of $28 to get into town (about 3 km) and back, we went to the Tourist Information. Very useful - have us a coupon card for the Hotel Darwin, an old fashioned, small place - no air conditioning, around the corner, which provided free wifi and a free drink. The wifi was great! No drink - it was 10 am, but they gave us water, let us use the loo 0 kindness itself for no profit! Then we walked two blocks to a shoppiing center that had an OPTIS store where we renewed our sim card for $30 (including 30 gb ofdata). In the wifi wasteland - this is often our only contact! (No wifi at the port or tourist office - so thanks Hotel Darwin!) This mall also had a bottle shop. Got a couple of bottles of white (its really hot). Washrooms make great transfer spots to move the wine into our water bottles to smuggle aboard ship. Then, business all done, walked three blocks to the bus station to take #4 bus to the museum and art gallery. All went tickety- boo (even got on for free) asked to be let off at the museum - he let us off the the casino instead. Asked an Aussie man where the museum was - 2-3 km up the road. At this point we were with a nice British couple who were touring for three months in a camper. The Aussie man offered to drive us all to the museum - saved again by the kindness of strangers! All piled in (5 of us) to this tiny car - I could not have walked that distance in the heat.

The Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory was fabulous! Great Aboriginal art, both contemporary and traditional, which I love. Terrific Gallery called the Stars and the Moon. Also a very moving gallery of Cyclone Tracy which devastated Darwin in 1974. Only 66 deaths, miraculous! However, the whole small city had to be rebuilt from scratch. Before, it was kind of dirty and squalid - now it is a gorgeous, modern city with an amazing waterfront.

Explored the history of Darwin 1911-21. Again, the Aboriginals and the Chinese suffered so much! We saw the huge, famous crocodile named Sweetheart who gained notoriety in the 1970s for attacking dinghies at a popular Darwin fishing spot. On at least two occasions the dinghy occupants were tipped into the water, although no one was ever hurt.

Then transit woes hit again - the 2:25 pm bus roared through at 2:15 pm - we just saw the back of it. However, the next one also came early, so we only had to wait 20 minutes. Connected well to the shuttle and back on board about 3:30 pm. The heat here kills you! We were lucky - right after we embarked, the gangway closed for about an hour because a large pane of glass right above it shattered, sending glass down. Wayne thinks he may have been hit in the shoulder by a small bit - no injury. An hours worth of people were stuck in the terminal while they erected a new gangway (took two tries). Of course, I had to be on deck to watch all this!

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